There’s nothing particularly new about the modernization of the pantry.

We watched it happen with olive oil, then tinned fish; there’s even talk that dental care is due for a redesign. And while the formula of taking an everyday staple, reconsidering the packaging, and sharpening the story has become all-too familiar, it can still feel exciting when a category that has looked the same for decades suddenly gets some attention.

But redesigning the everyday is complicated, particularly now. Groceries are expensive enough without turning every packaged good into a “premium purchase.” Brands like Fishwife have attracted their share of “gentrification” critiques. Still, there’s a difference between making a product more thoughtful, functional, sustainable, or beautiful and simply slapping a modern design on something ordinary to justify a higher price.